SnailAway Applications

This section offers advice on a number of different ways you can use SnailAway, but first a few general points:

SnailAway is, quite simply, an electric fence. Therefore, if the plants to be protected can be placed entirely within this fence – leaving no gaps, bridges or tunnels – they will be safe from incoming slugs and snails.

It’s important to remember, though, that most slugs (90%) live beneath the ground so any physical barrier should extend at least 75mm (3ins) below ground to stop them tunnelling in.

Remember too, that there is little point in creating an impenetrable barrier unless you ensure that none of the enemy is trapped inside! Ideally, only fresh-out-of-the-bag compost should be used but for large installations this may not be practical so you may have to use one or more of the traditional methods of control to remove them. But this should be done after you’ve fitted SnailAway and before you plant up.

Only when you are reasonably sure that you have a slug-free environment should you introduce your plants. Check that there are no eggs in the root ball of each new plant. This is especially important in the case of hostas. Experts advise that when transplanting hostas their roots should first be washed clean under a running tap. Scroll down for information on a variety of SnailAway applications.

Single Pots

SnailAway is can be applied single pots in a manner that protects plants and enhances the decorative appeal of the pot.

Terracotta & clay pots

Unglazed clay pots often develop unsightly salt deposits which can spoil their appearance. These chalky white stains are later accompanied by mossy green growths after mould attaches itself to the porous surface. As well as harbouring insects and fungi which may attack your plants these deposits and growths can also affect SnailAway. The high quality industrial strength adhesive tape used to attach SnailAway to your pots will eventually lift away from the surface of your pot and more unsightly salt marks will streak down and corrode the SnailAway.

Seasoned gardeners overcome the problem of degrading terracotta/clay pots by giving them a coat of varnish. Any exterior varnish will do and if you use a matt varnish you will preserve the matt effect of the pot. Once varnished, your pots will stay looking good for years, free from salt stains and green mossy marks. This treatment also ensures that the performance of SnailAway is unaffected. If you don’t want to varnish the whole pot, to avoid the risk to SnailAway just varnish the top lip of the pot, down to the bottom edge of where the tape will be. Once the varnish has dried, attach SnailAway in the usual manner (instructions for fitting SnailAway are, of course, included in each pack).

Using this simple and effective technique you can enjoy reliable and effective slug & snail control for your plants whilst maintaining the appearance of your containers.

Plinth

Not all pots are ideally suited to having SnailAway applied to them. Pots with ornate raised patterns do not always lend themselves well to being decorated with silver bands. Or you may have a number of small pots standing in a group.

In all these cases the use of a simple plinth (a paving slab will do) can discretely overcome the problem. By passing the SnailAway around the vertical edges of the plinth anything standing on the plinth becomes protected. Please note, however, that the lower ‘silver’ band should be about 25mm (1in) above the ground to ensure that large slugs/snails cannot ‘bridge’ it.

In Ground Fence

This approach is most commonly used for vegetable gardens or inside large greenhouses (see Eden Project). Its main attractions are its low cost, and simplicity. Details will vary according to size but basically the fence is constructed by driving in four corner posts, leaving 75mm (3ins) above the ground. A shallow trench (75mm or 3ins) is then dug between the posts and four planks of wood 150mm (6ins) wide are placed into the trenches. These are then screwed to the corner posts and the trench refilled and tamped down.

Attach the SnailAway battery box (use a nail or small screw as you will be working in this area and could dislodge the adhesive pad) level with the top edge and at one corner of the fence and apply the tape all round.

The inside must now be purged of any slugs/snails using traditional methods. But once done the SnailAway will ensure that no newcomers can get in to replace them.

Alternatively, you may wish to remove the top 150mm (6ins) or so of soil altogether, and replace it with ‘new’ compost. In this case it’s a good idea to line the whole of the inside with a permeable membrane (e.g. anti weed matting). This will make the whole thing very safe. But you won’t get any earthworms either!

Raised Beds

Raised beds are increasing in popularity and can be very easy to make slug-proof.

This is a variation on an in-ground fence, the main difference being that no trenches are needed because the fence-planks will normally be placed at the original ground level. This time it is essential to line the bed with a permeable membrane (e.g. anti weed matting). This should be brought right up to the top of the retaining planks and held in place with galvanised or aluminium tacks. Fill with 'new' compost and apply SnailAway as above.

Greenhouses

SnailAway is equally effective inside greenhouses, where it can be used to protect delicate plants and plantlings.

Slug-proof tray for the greenhouse Screw four lengths of timber along the edges of a rectangle of outdoor boarding. Apply SnailAway around the top edges. Any pots or seed trays placed within the tray will immediately be protected.

Beware of introducing slugs which may already be in a new plant (that you have just purchased) or which may have attached themselves to the bottom of a pot that’s been standing out!

Seed-trays

Trees

Snails have been known to kill certain species of tree by eating the new shoots as soon as they appear. By applying SnailAway around the trunk (again using a small nail or screw instead of the adhesive pad) the whole tree becomes protected.

Of course, this should be done early in the year before the snails become active.

Particularly vulnerable: Laburnum; some acers; fruit trees.